What is serum and what does serum do?

The science of serums: What is serum and what does serum do?

10th August 2020 | Author: Abigail Beall

After just a single search for face serums online brings up a confusing barrage of options.

Whether it’s anti-pollution, brightening, anti-ageing, moisturising, or stress-reducing, there doesn’t seem to be much a facial serum can’t do and prices for such “miracle” products range from a few pounds to an incredible £650. SIX HUNDRED AND FIFTY POUNDS. For that price, we’d expect someone to come and apply it for us.

READ NEXT: Best face serum for all skin types

To avoid you overspending or choosing the wrong serum for your skin type, below we’ve explained the science of serums  – from what serums do, to what ingredients you should be looking out for and which is the best serum on the market.

We are here to help you to avoid shelling out almost the UK’s average monthly rent for something that won’t work for your skin.

What is serum? 

While cleansers, toners and the best moisturisers are designed to help clean and hydrate the upper layers of the skin, a serum works below the surface to target the layers you can’t see. Serums are typically concentrated liquids, as opposed to creams, that are quickly absorbed into your skin and tend to be applied via a dropper if oil-based, or a pump if water-based.

Two of the most common ingredients listed in serums are retinol and niacinamide. Retinol is another name for vitamin A, and it is marketed as a solution to fine lines and wrinkles, whereas niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 found in green vegetables, meat, fish and eggs that can help additionally tackle dehydration and pigmentation.

READ NEXT: Best anti-ageing cream

What does serum do?

According to Dr Abigail Waldman, serums are especially good for people who are worried about signs of ageing. The concentrated nature of serums work well in delivering anti-ageing ingredients, like antioxidants, that will help slow down DNA damage in your skin which is what causes your skin to slump, sag and look sallow or dull.

This is why most serums are targeted at the face, but you can also buy serums for your neck and décolletage – the skin on your chest and in between your boobs. Many people concentrate on using skincare products to reduce and prevent signs of ageing on their face and around their eyes, in particular, but brands such as PRAI also sell serums to stop your neck from sagging or your skin becoming crêpey.

READ NEXT: How to get rid of age spots fast

First developed as an acne treatment 40 years ago, retinol in serums and other skincare products can help even out pigmentation and stimulate the production of collagen. A study in 2006 by researchers in India and Germany found “amongst various anti-ageing agents, retinoids are the most promising agents.”

Niacinamide works by stimulating the production of ceramides, which provide the skin with a barrier to the outside world. Anti-pollution serums will often contain niacinamide for this reason. This is also where it’s anti-ageing properties come in, as our natural ceramide barriers weaken with age and too much exposure to sunlight.

READ NEXT: Perfect your skincare routine with these must-have facial products

According to some companies, niacinamide can help treat wrinkles, dehydration, oily skin and pigmentation, and is often marketed as a treatment for acne and eczema. The clinical research available to back this up is less clear-cut than for retinol and ageing, but with niacinamide serums available for reasonable prices, from brands like The Ordinary for £5 for example, it might be worth a try.

Elsewhere, another popular serum ingredient – Vitamin C, also known as salicylic acid – is proven to reduce brown spots and reverse damage caused by sunlight while stimulating the growth of collagen. You’ll also find the antioxidants Vitamin E and ferulic acids in many serums and skincare products because of their similarly protective, anti-ageing properties. Ferulic acid is found in plants, including oats, which is also commonly used to firm the skin.

We absolutely swear by the Clarins Double Serum because it’s packed full of natural ingredients – from ginger to edelweiss, avocado and more – and having since introduced this serum into our routine, we’ve noticed a sharp reduction in oil and blemishes as well as a clearer complexion.

WANT TO KNOW MORE? The truth about the acids in your skincare

How to use serum 

In terms of a routine, serums are used on clean skin – so after you’ve cleansed, exfoliated and toned the skin – but before you apply your moisturiser. This gives the serum chance to soak into the skin when it’s fresh and clear before a layer of moisturiser is added which can prevent the serum working as effectively, and may even stop it from penetrating the lower layers of your skin.

READ NEXT: What does toner actually do?

When it comes to combining different ingredients across your cleanser, toner, moisturiser and serum – especially when they are acidic – be careful to avoid irritation. This is where serums that contain a mixture of active ingredients are good because you know they work together well. It’s also good practice to apply serum to a small area of the skin first and wait to see if there is any irritation before using it on your face.

What’s more, introducing retinol into a skincare routine can sometimes cause irritation or dry skin, so it’s a good idea to start using it every few days and increase its use gradually. This is particularly the case when it comes to hair care products. You can read more about the latter in our How to grow your hair faster explainer.

The best niacinamide serums

Serums that contain niacinamide help treat wrinkles, dehydration, oily skin and pigmentation. Suitable for acne and eczema-prone skin.

♥︎ Face Theory Porebright Serum N10

£14.99 | Buy now from Face Theory

Why we love it: Face Theory is all made in the UK – in Sheffield – and the brand now ships worldwide. Face Theory is on a mission to make the very best clean, unfrgranced skincare products it can – and to deliver them at an affordable price point.

With active ingredients inside this serum, such as

  • Aloe vera – to clarify excess sebum while soothing and hydrating the skin
  • Azelaic Acid – an anti-inflammatory derived from wheat that kills light to moderate acne bacteria (it’s not suitable for severe acne)
  • Niacinamide –  also known as Vitamin B3 that helps reduce the appearance of enlarged pores and even out skin tone.

You can use this serum on its own or underneath your moisturiser but because it contains 10% of niacinamide and azelaic, it is recommended you use just a small amount. You can read more about the benefits of introducing new products in our guide to skin purging. 

This is suitable for oily or combination skin with enlarged pores as well as sensitive and mature skin.

Buy now from Facetheory

♥︎ The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%

£5 | Buy now from Deciem


Why we love it: We love The Ordinary here at mamabella and its always has a solution for whatever you need for your skin. This is oil-free serum, which contains 10% of niacinamide, has reduced our skin blemishes and congestion especially around our nose area. With zinc salt it aids to balance visible sebum, meaning it’s also great for oil control on our T-zone.

With this being a potent serum it’s recommended to alternate this with any products that contain Vitamin C – an equally potent ingredient. In fact, The Ordinary suggests using this serum in your morning routine and Vitamin C in the evening.

All reviews have said this has been a gamechanger for people with excess sebum and large pores; they have even noticed a natural glow to the skin too. Users have noticed that their skin has also been brighter and even. All for a fiver!

READ NEXT: The best The Ordinary products for all skin concerns

Buy now from Deciem

The best Vitamin C serum

Vitamin C – also known as salicylic acid – helps get rid of age spots and reverse damage caused by sunlight while stimulating the growth of collagen.

♥︎ Kiehl’s Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Concentrate

£54 | Buy now from Feelunique

Why we love it: This serum has 12.5% of Vitamin C power and we love it because we’ve seen our dark spots reduced, and our skin feels plump and smooth after use. This isn’t the typical serum that has a watery/gel consistency, this serum feels more like a light paste.

Given the relatively high concentration of Vitamin C, it does look slightly orange and has a gritty feel to it. And once applied to your face you will feel a slight tingling sensation but that subsides quickly and didn’t cause us any irritation.

This serum additionally contains hyaluronic acid to restore moisture.

Read next: What does vitamin C do for your skin?

Buy now from Feelunique

Vichy Liftactiv Vitamin C Skin Brightening Corrector

£27.99 | Buy now from Superdrug


Why we love it: If you need a quick fix, this 10ml Vitamin C serum is used for 10 days only, and within those 10 days we guarantee you will see brighter and smoother skin. This serum contains 15% of pure Vitamin C, it also contains Vitamin E and hyaluronic acid to nourish and hydrate your skin.

Buy now from Superdrug

The Best Vitamin E and ferulic acid

SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Antioxidant Vitamin C Serum

£140 | Buy now from Lookfantastic


Why we love it: SkinCeuticals is known as advanced skincare, back by science and it was the first brand to run a clinical study looking into the effectiveness of Vitamin C on the skin. It’s no surprise, then, that its C E Ferulic serum is a best seller.

It is a powerful antioxidant and SkinCeuticals claims it can deliver eight times environmental protection, all the while helping your skin free from radical damage, improve fine lines, wrinkles and loss of firmness. You can read more about free radicals in our guide to the best foods for skin.

Yes, the price tag is hard to swallow but having ingredients like 15% pure Vitamin C, 1% Vitamin E and 0.5% of ferulic acid doesn’t come cheap.

We found this serum helped to tackle visible anti-ageing, like our fine lines and wrinkles while making your skin firm, bright and glowing.

Buy now from Look Fantastic

The Body Shop Vitamin E Overnight Serum-In-Oil

£16 | Buy now from The Body Shop

Why we love it: The Body Shop knows how to nourish your body and skin and the bonus is that all of its natural ingredients are fair trade. This is a lightweight non-greasy serum in a oil.  This nighttime serum will replenish and recharge your skin with the added benefit of locking in moisture overnight.

This is suitable for all skin types who need a little TLC, this feels very luxurious on the skin once applied and a little goes a long way. This serum has been found in sesame seed oil from Nicaragua and has the highest concentration of wheatgerm oil keeping your skin firm and hydrated.

In the cold winter months our skin is dry and often sensitive, and this restored hydration balance while leaving our face super soft. With Vitamin E, this can also assist with stimulating collagen production while fortifying your skin barrier.

Buy now from The Body Shop

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