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Olaplex is largely revered as the holy grail of hair treatments. Since starting out in a Californian garage in 2014, Olaplex’s patent technology is renowned for helping to repair damaged hair, especially chemically treated or coloured locks.
It’s so revered, it’s a salon brand that only relatively recently was made available for home use.
However, as with anything like this, there’s a catch – Olaplex doesn’t come cheap. Not to mention the fact there are now eight different Olaplex products in the range.
All that aside, we’re huge fans, and the reason we love Olaplex is that it offers a multitude of benefits; it’s more than worth the investment.
It can be used on all hair types, helping balance the PH levels in our scalps; it’s vegan-friendly, cruelty-free, and nut-free. Along with being free of parabens, sulfates, phosphates, and phthalates.
To help you get to grips with Olaplex, we’ve put together the ultimate guide to what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to use the various treatments.
FURTHER READING: This hair porosity test will reveal if you have high, medium or low porosity hair
Olaplex is a salon-quality haircare brand that has gained an iconic, cult status because – instead of making hair look healthier, effectively masking the damage within, Olaplex repairs and restores hair from the inside out.
The brand was founded by Dean Christal with chemists Dr. Craig Hawker and Dr. Eric Pressly. The trio set out to discover a molecule that would penetrate hair strands and repair the bonds inside.
Explore the full Olaplex range
Our hair contains millions of structured bonds which are broken when we subject them to high levels of heat, colouring, and chemical treatments. Even brushing hair too vigorously can cause these bonds to break which in turn leads to weak, damaged, and dull hair.
These so-called disulfide bonds are in all three main parts of the hair including the cuticle, the cortex, and the medulla. The latter is the innermost layer of the hair shaft that is where the strand is at its most fragile.
Inside hair, the structure has been likened to ladders that are twisted into “cables”. These cables and fibres combine to build the cortex and it’s the disulfide bonds that keep these cables in alignment. When all the bonds in your hair, but particularly the disulfide bonds, are intact and in alignment, your hair will be healthy and shiny. When disulfide bonds are broken, it results in damage.
All of Olaplex’s products contain an ingredient called bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate. This is a patented ingredient – detailed here – and according to the patent, the two ends of bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate form bonds with the sulfurs in the hair, creating an “artificial disulfide bridge”.
According to a superb explanation from LabMuffin, the “dimaleate part contain what’s known as Michael acceptors. These react to form covalent bonds…and so a new disulfide link is formed between the two sulfurs, making the hair stronger.”
FURTHER READING: Best hairbrush: Our pick of the best hairbrushes for thick, fine and curly hair
Explore the full Olaplex range
Knowing what Olaplex to use comes down to what you’re trying to achieve and how these products fit into your routine. However, if you only use one Olaplex product, make it the No.3 treatment. This is the best and most suitable for different hair types.
Ultimately, every product in the Olaplex range has the same end result – they repair damage and protect it from further impacts including those from pollution, heat and free radicals.
If you have dry, damaged hair that breaks easily (especially if it’s stringy when it’s wet,) you likely need the full range. At the very least you should use Olaplex No.3 a couple of times a week.
If you can afford it, add the Olaplex No.0 to dry hair and then add No.3 on top. Leave for a minimum of 10 minutes and rinse. Wash your hair with No.4, condition with No.5. Add No.9 to your towel-dried hair and then use No.7 to smooth and calm frizz. We also recommend that you apply the Olaplex No.8 mask at least once a week, preferably overnight.
If your hair is dry, or thick but not damaged, you can get away using Olaplex No.3 followed by No.4 Shampoo and No.5 Conditioner. Plus the No.8 hair mask for an extra hit of hydration. Instead of the No.9, we recommend the Olaplex No.7 oil for this hair type.
If your hair is curly, we recommend using Olaplex No.3, No.6, and No.8. Finish with No.7.
If your hair is fine and greasy, we recommend you avoid No.4 and No.5 and just use No.3 and finish with No.9.
Note: Olaplex’s patented formula works on damp/wet hair only. You can leave the treatments (No.0, No.3 and No.8) on your hair for hours, should you need to, but once your hair is dry it will stop making any more impact.
FURTHER READING: K18 vs Olaplex: Is Olaplex No. 3 or the K18 hair mask better for repairing your hair?
Olaplex was originally developed for salons, and the Olaplex No.3 Hair Perfector was sold as an at-home treatment between hair appointments. Then followed No.4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo and No.5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner. The Olaplex at-home range now includes No.0, and No. 3-No.9. The No.1 and No.2 treatments are still for professional salon use only.
You can scroll through all of the products, or click one of the links below to jump straight to the required section.
Explore the full Olaplex range
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To help you get to grips with the Olaplex products you can use at home, we explain what each number in the range does and how to use them – in particular, we show you how to use Olaplex No.3, the most commonly bought and used product in the collection.
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What does it do: Think of Olaplex No.0 as the mother of all haircare.
As its name suggests, the No.0 Olaplex has the highest concentration of Olaplex Bis-Aminopropyl Diglycol Dimaleate to make it the most intensive treatment in the range. Olaplex says it primes the hair to absorb nourishment from all products that are applied afterward, to maximise repair. Kind of like how you use primer makeup before foundation to create a flawless base.
It promises to repair up to 68% of damage and gives hair three times more strength. These effects are even better when No.0 it’s used with Olaplex No.3.
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What does it do: This product put Olaplex on the map. Olaplex No.3 is the brand’s bestselling home treatment because it rebuilds bonds within the hair. If you colour your hair or rely on straighteners or curling tongs, Olaplex No.3 is your best friend!
This is a once-a-week treatment that is highly recommended to be used between hair appointments. Even with highly bleached and overstyled hair, this little beauty works its magic to restore damage to the hair.
Social media recently blew up with claims and concerns that Olaplex was being banned in the UK because it causes infertility. These claims aren’t valid and were the result of some confusion concerning the banning of a substance in the EU that used to be found in Olaplex products.
You can read more in our: The truth about Olaplex “being banned” in the UK over claims it causes infertility guide.
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What does it do: This bonding shampoo can be used at home and is gentle enough to be used every day.
It tames frizz, repairs split ends and can be used on all types of hair, including coloured hair.
It does have quite a heavy consistency so you only need to use a small amount to make a difference.
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What does it do: This Blonde Enhancing Toning Shampoo uses the same active ingredients that mend broken bonds in the hair and now adds a purple toner to keep warm-toned hues from the hair.
In particular, toner has a tendency to dry hair out at the same time, it’s usually applied to bleached hair that is already dried and damaged. This means the addition of bond-building technology in this shampoo is a game-changer.
Officially called Olaplex No 4P Blonde Enhancing Toning Shampoo, it is an update on the No 4 Bond Maintenance Shampoo, with purple hair toner in the mix.
Purple is opposite yellow on the colour wheel. As a result, the purple in this shampoo helps to neutralise yellow tones in hair. This is also the reason why blue shampoo helps lift the colour of brunette hair. Both are effectively acting as hair toner.
In fact, it has been designed to “leave blondes three times brighter than regular purple shampoos” after just one use, and promises to use Olaplex’s Bond Building Technology to often customisable toning to “strengthen, soften, and neutralise unwanted yellow tones.” You can read more about what purple shampoo does on our explainer: What does purple shampoo do and which is the best one?
We recently dyed our hair platinum and can confirm that a single, weekly use of this shampoo makes a huge and very noticeable difference. It’s also great that the bottle is huge meaning it should last you ages.
If you’re opting to use the No 4P shampoo, it needs to be swapped in for your regular shampoo (or the traditional No. 4) in between No 3 Hair Perfector and the No 5 Bond Maintenance Conditioner.
FURTHER READING: Best shampoo for every hair type, from dry to curly, natural and fine
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What does it do? The No.4C Bond Maintenance Clarifying Shampoo is a pH-balanced, clarifying shampoo that’s suitable for all hair types and conditions.
It contains Olaplex’s patented ingredient bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate which works to rebuild the bonds in the hair to make it stronger.
When used after an Olaplex treatment (Olaplex 0-3) but before a conditioner, the clarifying shampoo acts to remove scalp build-up and stop your hair from looking dull, dry, or greasy. By clearing the scalp, it can also encourage your hair to grow back healthier and thicker.
You can also read more about the benefits of clarifying shampoo here.
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What does it do? The Olaplex No.4D Dry Shampoo is designed to “cleanse hair and detoxify the scalp” in between washes.
Olaplex promises that this dry shampoo will freshen up the hair and scalp but won’t leave any build-up or white, powdery residue.
This is because it uses rice starch to absorb excess oil, all while stopping your hair from smelling greasy and protecting it from the elements. Olaplex also claims it is “infused with skin-friendly ingredients” meaning it wouldn’t clog the pores on your scalp or cause irritation. It’s also vegan and cruelty-free.
For a limited time, when you buy the dry shampoo you’ll get a free tube of Olaplex No.3 at SpaceNK.
We’ve ordered this dry shampoo and will be putting it to the test ASAP. Stay tuned for updates, or buy the dry shampoo for yourself here. You can also read more about dry shampoo here.
How to use Olaplex No.4D
FURTHER READING: How to get rid of greasy hair and stop it from coming back | Best dry shampoo UK
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What does it do? The Olaplex No.5 conditioner has been formulated to work most effectively with the No.4 bonding shampoo.
It leaves hair feeling soft and easier to manage and this conditioner is all about re-linking broken bonds. It’s suitable for all hair types including coloured hair.
Just like the Olaplex No.4 Shampoo, the consistency of this conditioner is thick.
This means that you only need a small amount. We recommend you avoid your roots with this conditioner, particularly if you have fine hair that gets greasy quickly.
How to use Olaplex No.5
FURTHER READING: Best conditioner for all hair types and budgets
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What does it do: If your hair feels dry and brittle then No.6 is the Olaplex product to help smooth and mend those broken bonds. It gives hair strength and, most of all, moisture to keep hair smooth and frizz-free.
This should be used mid-length to the ends of the hair. Not only does it follow numbers 0-5 in the range, but it’s also called No.6 because it can be used on six hair types and conditions.
How to use Olaplex No.6
If you’re not sure which type you are, check out our What type of hair do I have? guide.
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What does it do: The Olaplex No.7 Bonding Oil gives hair a gorgeous shine and strengthens hair along the way.
It also adds softness and gives coloured hair a boost, all while minimising flyaways and frizz.
We especially love this because it provides UV/heat protection up to 232°C and we recently featured it in our Best heat protectant spray list.
The Bonding Oil can be used on damp hair before styling or on dry, styled hair for controlling frizz and flyaways. This is our favourite Olaplex product.
How to use Olaplex No.7
FURTHER READING: Best heat protectant spray UK
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What does it do: The Olaplex No.8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask is one of the latest releases in the Olaplex range.
It’s a multi-benefit hair mask with a concentrated amount of Olaplex bond-building technology. It adds shine, smoothness, and body to the hair while injecting intense moisture into damaged hair. It doubles the shine and quadruples the moisture, all while making it 6x smoother (according to Olaplex).
We tend to apply this at night and wear overnight, wrapped in a silk turban.
How to use Olaplex No.8
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What does it do: The Olaplex No.9 Bond Protector Nourishing Hair Serum is the newest release from the iconic haircare company.
As its name suggests, this is a protective treatment that can be used daily to prevent damage from free radicals, pollution as well as heat damage. All while repairing the bonds in your hair.
This serum is lightweight, meaning it won’t weigh down your hair. It’s also silicone-free and contains antioxidants. Antioxidants help neutralise free radicals. This serum will also stop pollution from drying out your hair and leaving it looking dull.
Plus, it’s a heat protector! All-in-all a wonder product. Until now, we’ve been using the Bonding Oil in place of a standalone Olaplex heat protector. This serum has now replaced it!
How to use Olaplex No.9
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Victoria is founder and editor-in-chief of mamabella, freelance journalist and Mum. She has a passion for empowering people to feel beautiful whatever their age, size, skin type and budget